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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's)


These are a list of the questions we've most commonly received over the Internet over the past 6 years.

Click on the question to get the answer:

Q.   What is the difference between a "Victor" and a "Victrola"?

Q.   Aren't all old phonographs called "Victrolas"?

Q.  What is an "RCA Victor" phonograph?

Q.   I have a Victrola Model XYZ in great shape, please tell me what it is worth.

Q.   Can you just give me a general ballpark valuation if I send you the model, serial number and finish?

Q.   I have a bunch of questions about my Victrola. How rare is it? How do I get the motor to stop banging and thumping? How many did they make? How does it work? What year was it made? And so on...

Q.   Should I restore my Victrola or leave it original?

Q.   Where should I go to sell or buy a Victrola? Will you buy it?

Q.   Can I buy needles or parts from you?

Q.   How can I tell if my Victrola is "legit" and not a fake?

Q.  My Victrola has "1906" on the decal. Is it really this old?

Q.   I have an Edison (or Columbia or Pathe or Sonora) Victrola. Do you have information on this machine?

Q.   How can I safely move a Victrola?

Q.   Where can I get parts or have my machine restored?

Q.   What about needles? Which should I use?

Q.   Where can I purchase needles?

Q.  What is the "survival" database used for? Why should I enter my machine into your database?

Q.   What kinds of records can I play on my Victrola?

Q.   My Victrola isn't covered in any of your listings

Q.   I have an "Electrola" (VE) Victrola. Is it more valuable than a standard Victrola?

Q.   I have a lot of old 78 RPM records, what are they worth?

Q.   My Victrola won't crank (or the turntable won't turn). What would you suggest to assist?

Q.  The turntable spins, but the sound is terrible. What could be the problem?


Q. What is the difference between a "Victor" and a "Victrola"

A.  A "Victor" is a phonograph with the horn mounted externally. A "Victrola" has an internal horn, often with doors in front that open and close to control the volume. Both are products of the Victor Talking Machine Company. Victors were made in the 1901 until the early 20's. Victrolas were made from 1906 up through 1929, when RCA bought the company (and became "RCA Victor")

Q. Aren't all old phonographs called "Victrolas"?

A.  No. Victrola was a brand name of products from the Victor Talking Machine Company. Hundreds of other phonograph companies were around in 1900-1929 period, with different brand names. This website only covers products from The Victor Talking Machine Co.

Q.  What is an "RCA Victor" phonograph?

A.  The Victor Talking Machine Company was an independent corporation from 1901 through 1929, at which time the RCA Corporation purchased it. They merged the names to become "RCA Victor". Hence, many phonographs, TV sets, radios and other equipment produced after 1929 has the "RCA Victor" logo. This website does not have information on any RCA products.

Q.   I have a Victrola Model XYZ in great shape, please tell me what it is worth.

A.   Accurately appraising a Victor or Victrola sight unseen is an impossible task. To get a rough idea of value, the reader is asked to determine the model, serial number and finish. With this information, the reader can get a general approximation of worth from the "PRODUCTS" link on the home page. However, this will only give a general summary of valuation and rarity. Quality and type of finish, originality, as well as the production volume, condition and current demand will determine the ultimate selling price, and this information requires that a qualified appraiser see the machine in person (or at minimum, a lot of GOOD pictures). A common Victrola can command a high price if it has an uncommon finish, and/or if the condition is mint original. High-quality refinishing work can often appear to be original to the novice, and small flaws in a machine can make a great deal of difference in the overall price. In addition, what is "excellent" to one person may be "mediocre" to another; thus, we refrain from providing a price guide on these pages.  Go to the SERVICES page to get information regarding paid appraisal services.

Q.   Can you just give me a general ballpark valuation if I send you the model, serial number and finish.

A.    The more common Victrolas that were produced in huge quantities (VV-IV, VV-VI, VV-IX,  VV-XI, VV-80, VV-210, etc.) in average "attic" condition (alligatored or worn finish, some scratches, etc.) will rarely bring over $300 at phonograph auctions, and usually sell for considerably less. Since 2007, phonograph prices have fallen considerably, due to changes in the economy, and a "glut" of common machines on Ebay and elsewhere. In the past couple years, prices for VV-XI, VV-IX or other common Victrolas, in good condition have averaged around $150 or so on the auction circuit.  In absolute mint original condition, these machines can be worth more than triple this value, depending on who is buying. Although you may see common Victrolas in average condition with asking prices of $1000 or more at antique dealers or on Ebay, no knowledgeable collector would pay that kind of price for these models.

External horn Victor phonographs sell, on average, for more than their Victrola counterparts. Nice Victors can range in price from $500 up to well over $3000 depending on model and condition.

There are rare special Victor and Victrola phonographs that sell well into the tens of thousands of dollars, but these require a detailed appraisal to determine actual value. We avoid making price guesses, which may be very inaccurate if the machine is actually better (or worse) than it is described. In addition, the requestor may not know if the finish is original, and may not recognize aftermarket parts or reworked cabinet details. 

It is our policy not to provide price "guesses". If you are interested in an accurate, professional appraisal, please click here.

Q.   I have a bunch of questions about my Victrola. How rare is it? How do I get the motor to stop banging and thumping? How many did they make? How does it work? What year was it made? And so on...

A.  Readers should be aware that this website receives over 110 emails every day, most requesting help or information in some form. If we took 3 minutes to respond to each one, we would be spending almost 6 hours answering email every day. And in most cases, the same questions are asked over and over. (See our section on Annoying Repetitive Questions for the "Top Fifteen" inquiries that arrive in our email daily). We simply can't answer them all.  The vast majority of these questions can be answered by simply beginning with the GETTING STARTED section on the home page and following the steps that are described. Many readers submit questions without taking the time to read what is already here, and in those instances, we are unable to provide further help. If, after having searched this site, you are unable to find what you are looking for, please email us for assistance and we will try to respond.  However, since we are running a business, we regret that we are not able to answer emails when the requested information requested is readily available on this site.  We have spent a great deal of time and effort to develop a comprehensive informational website on Victor and Victrolas, so please feel free to spend as much time as you wish reading the material. The vast majority of topics related to these phonographs are covered within.

Q.   Should I restore my Victrola or leave it original?

A.   This question is asked very frequently, and we really can't provide a good answer, as it is a very personal decision. In almost all instances, if your phonograph is in good original condition, our advice is to leave it that way! Antiques always retain better value if they have the original finish. However, if it is frazzled, falling apart, or has been stored in a damp basement for years, then the only way you are going to get it looking good again is to restore it.  Some people prefer to leave their phonographs untouched, no matter how bad they look, and others want them all looking "like new". Only you can determine what is best for your own situation. A mechanical rebuild of the motor and other components is not considered a "restoration", and will not harm the value in any way (providing it is done correctly).

Q.   Where should I go to sell or buy a Victor or Victrola?  Will you buy it?

A.  If you are trying to buy or sell a Victor or Victrola, there are several alternatives that can work well. Ebay and other internet auction services have a lot of visibility with collectors, and can draw reasonable prices for the seller. It is best to add pictures and detailed descriptions of the machine in question, including model and serial number. If you are buying from Ebay, use extreme care that the Victrola is as described, and we strongly suggest the use of PAYPAL to protect your purchase. Even experienced collectors have been burned more than once by machines that have been blatantly misrepresented. 

Alternatively, local or national auctions are a great place to buy and sell. There are auction services that specialize in antique phonographs (for example, Stanton's Auctioneers in Vermontville, Michigan) which hold regular auctions that draw good attendance. The Antique Music Machine show at Union Illinois (near Elgin) always has a lot of machines for sale, and is basically a giant phonograph swap meet. This show is usually held on the second weekend in June each year. A list of shows and auctions are presented here.

Rarely does one find the corner antique store to be a good source to buy or sell a phonograph, as prices tend to be prohibitively high and commissions are equally burdensome.  Regardless of where you buy it, be very careful that you know what you are getting. Unfortunately, the antique business is loaded with individuals who are somewhat less than knowledgeable about phonographs, and what is sold as a rare original may be nothing more than a common attic phonograph. 

We offer a full line of Victors and Victrolas for sale, all guaranteed to be correct and authentic, with fully rebuilt mechanics. Click here to enter our online catalog.

We get about 10 email solicitations per day from this website to buy Victrolas. Unfortunately, unless it is one of exceptional rarity, we are not interested in buying at this time.

Q.  Can I buy needles or parts from you?

A.  We do not sell parts or needles. The parts we have in stock are for our restoration work only. See below for information on parts, needles and supplies.

Q.   How can I tell if my Victor or Victrola is "legit" and not a fake?

A.  Forgeries of external horn phonographs (Victors) are rampant on Ebay and at flea markets. These can usually be spotted a mile away by any serious collector; the horns are often plated in a phony brass or gold and the angle of the horn is high and very incorrect. Most are made in India from a mish-mash of old and new parts. Before a novice purchases an external horn phonograph online, an expert should be consulted to provide an assessment of the machine in question, as there are many fakes on the market today. 

There are not a lot of fake Victrolas currently on the market, primarily because they are not as valuable as the earlier external-horn Victor machines. Recently, we have seen a few misrepresented Victrola machines on Ebay and elsewhere. The most frequent "forgery" is to take a cabinet from a common model, and simply attach a dataplate from a rare model, to make it appear more valuable. We have also seen phony Victor dataplates attached to phonographs that are bastardized combinations of components from who-knows-where.  These fakes are easily identified when a good Victor reference book (e.g. Look for the Dog) is used to verify the machine type. 

Nipper on Steroids: A Chinese "Rip-Off" Dataplate from a Fake Victrola

A more problematic and common forgery is not really a forgery at all, but more of a misrepresentation. Machines that have been restored incorrectly, or which have been re-veneered with inferior materials are becoming more and more common on the market. There is nothing wrong with buying or selling a restored machine...ANY restored machine...as long as the buyer knows that it was restored. However, since original Victrolas usually command a higher price than restored Victrolas, devious sellers will often misrepresent a restoration, with hopes of "fooling" the buyer and getting a much higher price. Obvious indicators of a restoration include:

Q.  My Victrola has "1906" on the decal and/or label. Is it really this old?

A.  Not likely. Victor patented the internal-horn phonograph in 1906, and this patent date (along with others) is found on virtually all Victrolas. Only the earliest (and relatively uncommon) Victrolas date prior to 1910. Using the "PRODUCTS" link on the home page will assist you in determining the date of your machine. Most Victrolas date from the 1915-1928 timeframe, since this was when the highest volumes were produced. Victors (external horn models) were made from 1901 through the early '20's.

Q.   I have an Edison (or Columbia or Pathe or Sonora) Victrola. Do you have information on this machine?

A.   Victrola was the copyrighted term for internal horn phonographs made by The Victor Talking Machine Company, and thus, there is no such thing as an "Edison Victrola", just like there is no such thing as a "Chevrolet Ford".  Literally hundreds of companies made phonographs, some were quite famous, while others were obscure. Victrola was only one brand amongst many.

We have no information on other makes of phonographs; however the reader may find assistance via some of the links provided on the RESOURCES page of our website. 

Q.  How can I safely move a Victrola?

A.  Any Victrola can be safely transported in the back of a station wagon, van or SUV. Simply remove the soundbox from the tonearm by twisting it counterclockwise 1/8 turn and pulling it off. Sometimes they stick a bit and might require some encouragement. Then release the brake so that the turntable spins freely.  Remove the turntable platter by pulling it straight up and off the spindle. Then remove the crank by turning it backwards until it unscrews from the motor. Secure the toneam with rubber bands to keep it from moving around and damaging the interior of the lid. Remove any other loose parts (needle cups, etc.) and any records or other items in the storage area. Then secure the lid and doors with shrink wrap (or by locking them if you have the key). The Victrola can be safely moved on its back or positioned upright (in a van or truck). Use care to wrap it well in furniture blankets to prevent damage to the finish.

Q.   Where can I get parts or have my machine restored?

A.  Please refer to the RESOURCES page on this website for parts. Click here if you want information on our restoration services.

Q.  What about needles?  Which should I use?

A.  Victrolas were designed to use steel needles, which are still readily available through the sources listed on the Repair and Refinishing page on this website. They are usually available in loud and soft tone versions. Steel needles should be used only once to avoid excessive wear on the record. Victor manufactured a multi-play Tungstone needle in the late 'teens and early 20's. These needles lasted for many playings without replacement. In addition, soft fiber needles were also available from Victor in the heyday of the Victrola, giving a very subdued sound. To my knowledge, only steel needles are being manufactured at present. I know of no current manufacturers of either fiber of Tungstone needles.

Q.   Where can I purchase needles?

A.  Any of these sources can supply you with needles and most other Victrola parts and accessories:

 

Great Lakes Antique Phonograph

George Vollema

9496 N. Woodbridge Ave

Bitely, Michigan 49309

(231) 745-7175

http://www.victroladoctor.com/

EMAIL: victrola@triton.net

 

Antique Phonograph Supply Company (APSCO)

P.O.Box 123

Route 23

Davenport Center, New York  13751

(607) 278-6218

http://www.antiquephono.com

 

Wyatts Musical Americana

P.O.Box 601

Lakeport, California  95453

(707) 263-5013

http://www.wyattsmusical.com

 

Q.  What is the "survival database" used for? Why should I enter my machine into your database?

A.  The "survival database" has been an ongoing project since the 1980's, and has logged well over 170,000 Victor and Victrola phonographs which are still existent. It is used for our research work: to determine when model changeovers took place, the rarity of certain models and finishes, and to better understand how many are still around. We do not require that the submitter include any personal information or email address information, and we do not store or log any IP addresses or other data. Users may include their email address if they want us to get back to them to answer questions (providing that the questions are not already covered on this website), or if their submitted machine is particularly rare. Once entered into the database, the email addresses are deleted. All entries are filtered for SPAM or phony data before being automatically entered. Eventually, this information will be made available for online analysis; however, at the present time, we have not developed an external access interface for database queries.

Q.   What kinds of records can I play on my Victrola?

A.  Victrolas will play any laterally-cut 78 RPM record. This would include most flat records, with the exception of the early Edison and Pathe discs, which used a vertical cutting method. Don't play thick Edison discs, as these are vertically cut, and the Victrola's needle will ruin them. Victor, Columbia, Regal, Paramount, Banner, Aeolian, and a host of other brands will all play correctly. The reader is warned that playing 78's made after 1935 on a Victrola will cause the record to wear very quickly, as these records were designed for the lighter tonearms that were used on later electric phonographs. Thus, it is not wise to play "big band" or Frank Sinatra 78's on any pre-1929 acoustic phonograph. 

Early Edison and Columbia machines used cylinders as a recording medium, which are obviously completely incompatible with the flat record format. The interested reader should search for Edison websites for further information on cylinder recordings.

Steel needles were designed to be used ONLY ONCE, and should be removed and discarded after every play. Using a worn needle will cause rapid record wear.

Q.   My Victrola isn't covered in any of your listings

A.  First, make sure that you have a true Victor product, and not a phonograph from some other manufacturer. Also make sure that it isn't an RCA Victor product, which are not covered on this website. If you see the words "RCA" someplace on the machine, it isn't a Victor. If you are certain that you have a true Victor which isn't listed on here, email me and we will get back to you for some further discussion. Perhaps you have discovered a new model!

Q.   I have an "Electrola" (VE) Victrola. Is it more valuable than a standard Victrola?

A.  In most instances, Victrolas with electric motors are not more valuable than the wind-up versions. While it is true that Electrolas were made in much smaller numbers than the wind-up machines, they sell for about the same price as similar wind-up machines at auction and shows. Some collectors prize the early electrics, while others shun them and prefer to do the winding themselves. Regardless, there is rarely a significant value advantage for the electrics. 

Q.   I have a lot of old 78 RPM records, what are they worth?

A.  We are not active in the record collecting hobby, and thus do not keep up with pricing. There were literally hundreds of millions of 78 RPM records produced, and it is quite unusual to find ANY 78 record that sells for more than a couple of dollars. In fact, in most cases, they are bought and sold at auction by the boxload, at very low prices. Records that MAY have some serious value would include very early (pre-1905) records (these are one-sided records, usually with a license sticker on the blank side), picture discs, or an occasional rare release. As a reference, even very rare Victor or Columbia records seldom sell for more than $20. There are a number of good websites on 78 RPM records.

Q.   My Victrola won't crank (or the turntable won't turn). What would you suggest to assist?

A.  There can be many reasons why your machine won't work, but the usual causes are:

1. Broken spring(s)

2. Solidified lubricants in spring barrel or gears

3. Damaged governor

4. Missing,  worn or damaged gears

 

Instructions for repair are beyond the scope of this website, but the reader is strongly encouraged to purchase a copy of Eric Reiss' book "The Talking Machine Companion" (see the Recommended Reading page) for simple diagnosis and instructions. Alternatively, a number of excellent repair services are available, listed on the "RESOURCES" page. With 100+ requests coming in via email every day, we regret that we are unable to write-out detailed repair instructions for you.

 Q.  The turntable spins, but the sound is terrible. What could be the problem?

A.  There can be several causes for bad sound:

1. Worn record or needle (don't forget: steel needles are good for playing only ONE record!!)

2. Damaged diaphragm or mis-adjusted stylus linkage

3. Dried-out soundbox gasket (around the mica diaphragm)

Instructions for repair are beyond the scope of this website, but the reader is strongly encouraged to purchase a copy of Eric Reiss' book "The Talking Machine Companion" (see the "RESOURCES" page for simple diagnosis and instructions).

Don't forget that the Victrola isn't ever going to sound like your CD player or cassette player. These machines have a pretty unique sound quality that takes a little getting used to!

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