Repair and Restoration Tips
Most of the questions relating to parts, repairs, and restoration are discussed via the links located on the main "RESOURCES" section (the page you just came from) There is a LOT of material there, and it will take some time to digest. For the benefit of those readers who are just getting started, I'll discuss the most common topics here.
Motors: if they clunk,
stick, bang, rattle, stall, or don't spin when you wind them, it's time for some
lubrication, or a total rebuild. Depending on the extent of the problem,
the repair may be simple or quite complex. The Victor phonograph motor has between 1
and 4 large mainsprings (depending on model), which are enclosed in steel drums.
These springs were packed in grease when new; after 80 years, it is common for
the old grease to harden like a rock and render the motor inoperable. Sometimes
the springs break due to age or overwinding, which requires a total replacement;
but most of the time, the original springs can be removed, cleaned, greased and
replaced. As a general rule, if the motor spins slowly, or thumps and bangs
loudly while running, then the spring likely needs to be removed, cleaned and
lubricated. If a fully wound motor starts out fine bu
t "poops out" half-way
into the record, most likely you have one (or more) broken springs. If
the motor makes a loud machine gun banging sound, the governor weights have likely come
loose, and
should be repaired before damage is done. If the crank doesn't wind, don't force
it. Most likely the motor grease has hardened and seized the spring, or some
gear damage is present. This will
require complete disassembly, repair and cleaning, along with lubrication. On rare
occasions, the spiral drive gears will be damaged, and require replacement as well.
Removing and replacing mainsprings isn't an easy task, and requires some
expertise, as it can be dangerous if a wound spring pops-out of the housing. In
addition, re-packing the spring correctly in the barrel, and then realigning and
adjusting the governor mechanism takes some skill and experience. If you haven't
done it before, I don't recommend that you try these repairs yourself without
some good coaching. Plus, cleaning out that old hard grease (which permanently stains
everything that comes in contact with it) is no picnic.
Click here for a copy of an original Victrola Owner's Manual, which describes some of the basic functions and maintenance procedures. For detailed explanations on motor repair and rebuilding, I suggest that you find a copy of the Eric Reiss book, The "Compleat Talking Machine", which is covered in the LINKS and REFERENCES section of this site.
Sound: if the phonograph sounds distorted, buzzes or squawks when playing a good recording, it's probably time for a soundbox rebuild. The rubber gasket surrounding the mica diaphragm should be soft and compliant. If it's brittle and/or cracked, it should be replaced. This is a job for the experienced repair person, as it is easy to damage the mica. It entails replacing the gasket and re-waxing the soundbar-to-diaphragm connection, and then re-aligning the stylus bar. It's really easy to make mistakes and ruin the diaphragm, so use great care if you try it yourself.
Cabinets: if the finish is frazzled, the veneer is bubbled, or Fluffy The Cat has been using your Victrola as a scratching post, it's time to refinish it. Before you tackle this task, please carefully read the "REFINISHING and RESTORATION" section to assure that you don't lessen the value of your phonograph. This page also covers the cleanup and refurbishment of phonographs with good original finishes.
If you need parts or needles, please contact one of the companies listed in the "PARTS SUPPLIERS" Section. I don't sell parts.
Many repairs are simple, but I can't possibly answer individual requests to write out repair instructions. Time simply doesn't permit such responses.
